Expert Spotlight

Dr Geoffrey Heber
Cosmetic Physician

A cosmetic physician’s approach to skin care

If you’ve ever wondered whether your beauty-counter face cream really can help fight the signs of ageing, it may be time to take a more medical approach to looking after your skin.

“Products used at a specialist skincare clinic or ‘cosmeceuticals’ are different from mass-brand products available at beauty counters or pharmacies,” explained cosmetic physician Dr Geoffrey Heber.
 

 “Cosmeceuticals are skin care cosmetics that manufacturers suggest have a ‘pharmaceutical’ effect.”

 “Unlike regular cosmetics, cosmeceuticals usually contain higher levels of active ingredients, which may benefit people with skin concerns such as signs of ageing, or those whose skins are not responsive to products with lower concentrations,” said Dr Heber.

Key ingredients in cosmeceuticals

Active ingredients in cosmeceuticals can be grouped into three categories:

• Vitamins
• Alpha-hydroxy acids
• Herbals

Vitamins

“Vitamins A, C and E are used either in their pure or naturally occurring forms or as derivatives,” Dr Heber said.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)

AHAs such as glycolic and lactic acids are powerful promoters of hyaluronic acid production, according to Dr Heber.

Hyaluronic acid is a component in the skin that is able to absorb up to 1,000 times its molecular weight in water, thus giving the skin a firm appearance.

Herbals

Grape seed extract contains proanthocyanidins, which have been reported to enhance sun protection factors.

Another ingredient that may be used to treat skin pigmentation is liquorice root, which contains a compound called glabridin. Glabridin has been shown to inhibit the enzyme responsible for the production of abnormal pigmentation.

General approaches to skin concerns

“People with acne or large pores are often prescribed salicylic acid, often in combination with vitamin A,” Dr Heber said.

Both salicylic acid and vitamin A dissolve bonds between dead skin cells and clear the pores. AHAs are also helpful with acne as they have a similar effect of dissolving bonds between surface skin cells.

“For people with signs of skin ageing, such as fine lines and loss of elasticity, the most helpful ingredients include vitamins A and C and the AHAs,” said Dr Heber.

People with pigmentation problems may be prescribed prescription-strength vitamins. Non-prescription products for pigmentation include retinol and ingredients such as liquorice extract and bearberry extract. AHAs and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are also used to refine the skin as they increase cell turnover.